Beadboard paneling is one of the fastest ways to take a room from builder-grade boring to high-end custom. Like many decorative treatments, beadboard has its origins in utlity. It was first used in England hundreds of years ago as a barrier to cold and moisture. Now, this classic style brings warmth and charm to almost any room. Although having beadboard installed can be pricey, ranging from approximately $8 to $13 per linear foot, it’s much more affordable if you DIY. Installing beadboard isn’t particularly difficult if you have the tools and are willing to take the time to do it right. Most beadboard installation mistakes happen when you try to rush or cut corners, so don’t tackle this project the weekend before you’re expecting out-of-town visitors to stay over.

Set yourself up for success by prepping your room. Safely remove baseboards and outlet covers. Use a level to draw a line around the room at the height you want to install the beadboard. Locate the studs using a stud finder, nail, or tape measure. This will help you avoid several mistakes that can lead to uneven lines or nailing your beadboard in the wrong place. Then, take a look at these common mistakes people make during beadboard installation, so you can avoid these pitfalls.

Beadboard paneling is a classy wall option that’s typically installed between 32 and 36 inches from the floor. However, you can adjust this to avoid having to make a lot of extra cuts for features such as window sills, medicine cabinets, or other trims. Or, you can extend it higher if you like the look. What you want to avoid is stacking panels vertically because it’s difficult to adequately hide the seams.

Another mistake to avoid is leaving large gaps in the corners and thinking you can fill them with caulk. Caulking baseboards and trim is great for vertical seams and small gaps, but attempting to hide large gaps with caulk is a sure sign of an amateur installation job. 

Make sure, too, that you store and install your beadboard paneling properly to avoid warping. Warped beadboard will ruin the look of your room. Beadboard typically warps due to humidity issues. Wood is an organic material that absorbs moisture. Installing beadboard in high-moisture areas such as bathrooms and basements will make it more prone to warping. You may also have warping issues if you don’t let your beadboard panels acclimate to the humidity level of your house before installing it. If your stud falls on one end of an uneven panel and you don’t have a stud to nail the other side to, it may lift on one end.

Knowing about these mistakes before you start installing beadboard is your best defense, but all is not lost if you’ve inadvertently committed one. The best defense to avoid stacking panels is to cut each one to the full length of the installation. If you absolutely can’t avoid stacking panels, though, consider using trim to hide the seam. This works well if panels aren’t available in long enough lengths to cover your wall. If you’re only stacking one panel and don’t want to use trim to hide the seam, wood putty will work better than caulk. Use a putty knife to apply a thick coat of wood putty to the seam. Feather it out on either side of the seam. Use the corner of the putty knife to remove the putty from the grooves of the beadboard, being careful not to reveal the seam. Let the putty dry complete, then sand it down carefully.

Large corner gaps are usually caused by walls that aren’t perfectly square. To avoid leaving these gaps, scribe your beadboard so that it’s just as crooked as your wall. Measure the distance between the last panel you installed and the wall at the top and bottom. The difference between those numbers is the gap. Use a compass and set the distance between the pointed end and the pencil to match the gap. Push the board up against the wall. Place the pointed end of the compass against the wall and the pencil on the beadboard. Start drawing at the end of the board that butts up against the wall, and you’re sure to have precise results.